The above pictures are from croftmill.co.uk
Although denim has existed for centuries, it’s more popular than ever. In this way, it has entered thousands of households, and almost everyone has a lot of denim products. There is something special about this particular fabric. Reason enough for us to delve into this blue fabric with a series of articles.
Denim is a heavy yarn-dyed warp-faced twill fabric, which is interwoven with indigo warp yarns (the vertical direction) and white weft yarns ( the horizontal direction) through a specific organizational structure. Today let’s talk about 3 x 1 twill weaves.
So today in this article we talk about
- What is 3 x 1twill weaves?
- What’s the difference between left hand twill and right hand twill?
Let’s get started now!
What Is 3 X 1 Twill Weaves?
A 3 x 1 twill weave means each warp yarn is over 3 weft yarns before entering the next weft yarn. Weave floats are longer than other twills, creating fewer interweaving points in the fabric. This weave design produces fabrics with higher tear strength and is used to make heavier bottom-weight fabrics， such as denim and chinos
And then 3 x 1 twill weaves can be divided to the left hand twill and right hand twill, also there is another way to call it “S TWILL” is left twill, and “Z TWILL” is right twill.
- Right Hand Twill
Right twill, also called RHT and ‘Z twill’, is the standard fabric introduced by Levi’s and is currently the most commonly used twill in the industry.
Most denim fabrics are right twill, which means the diagonal twill lines on the surface of the fabric run from the lower left corner to the upper right corner.
In general, the right twill is tighter and more densely woven than other twills and has a flatter, smoother surface.
- Left Hand Twill
Left twill, also called LHT and “S twill,” was originally used by Lee as his standard fabric, as opposed to right twill. Today, many brands use left-hand twill fabrics, primarily as a complement to their standard right twill collections.
For left twill fabrics, the diagonal twill lines run from bottom right to top left. The left twill tends to be softer than the right twill. After wearing, the fabric will evolve differently and will fade vertically.
What Is the Different for Left Hand Twill and Right Hand Twill?
Let me tell you the easy way to distinguish the left hand twill and right hand twill！ There are three main differences between the left hand twill and the right hand twill.
- The direction of weaving is reversed, as stated above
If you are still not clear about how to distinguish the left hand twill and right hand twill, here is an easy identification method:
firstly face the jeans and put your right hand on the top of the denim, separate four fingers together and thumb to another side.
then make sure your wrist is parallel to the warp yarns. It means four fingers and a thumb separated in two different directions.
At last, you will check If the lines of denim go up towards to which direction, to the four fingers way is right hand twill. And go to the thumb way is left hand twill, here a picture which shows right hand twill for your better understanding.
- The twist of the yarn is different
Under the same conditions, the fabric weaved with the left twill is softer and fluffier than the right twill, especially after washing. Also, the fading effect is lighter and more retro than the right twill. However, if it is washed denim that has been washed and processed, the texture of the fabric has little effect on the texture.
The reason why the left twill is softer than the right twill is that the right twill tightens the yarn twist more than the yarn of the left hand twill, therefore stiffening the denim where as the left twill loosens the yarn twist slightly and is softer.
- More retro in the color after the wash
The fading effect of the left hand twill may be lighter and more retro than the right hand twill, but this statement is not entirely accurate, because the factors that affect the fading effect include the structure of the yarn and the dyeing method.
Generally speaking, there is no big difference between the left hand twill and right hand twill.
Neither in the feeling of wearing nor in the quality of the clothing. Therefore, we don’t need to pay too much attention to it, but if you have a strong interest after this article, you can go home to check if your jeans are all right hand twill, or you can also buy a few pairs of left hand twill jeans to experience the difference.
Conclusion
ZEVA DENIM also sells the left hand twill to meet the request of the market. Style no. 7701 which made of 97 cotton and 3% polyester.
If you want to continue to learn more about denim fabrics, please continue to follow our blog.
If you enjoy this article, share it with others and leave a comment.
Thanks for reading!
